Périgord/Dordogne Valley – Day 3 – On to Bergerac
Wednesday, 21-May-2025
Tags: Travel
The Périgord is a natural region and former province of France, which corresponds roughly to the current Dordogne department, now forming the northern part of the administrative region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. It is divided into four areas called the Périgord Noir (Black), named so for the truffles that can be found there, the Périgord Blanc (White), for chalk cliffs and quarries, the Périgord Vert (Green), for forests and forestry and the Périgord Pourpre (Purple), for wine and viticulture. (Wikipedia)
(Note that Wikipedia says that Périgord Noir is named for the black truffles, but other places say that it is named after the dense oak forests where those truffles are found).
One of the primary physical characteristics of the Dordogne department is the Dordogne River which flows east to west through the entire department and eventually flows into the Garonne just north of Bordeaux.

On Wednesday morning, we picked up our rental car at the train station in Bordeaux and headed east. Our first stop in the Périgord was in Périgord Pourpre, the wine growing region know as Bergerac. Bergerac is a small city on the western edge of the Dordogne department, and is the center of a wine growing region (of the same name) that is somewhat overshadowed by its cousin to the west (Bordeaux). The Bergerac region has several appellations (AOCs) including Pécharmant, Monbazillac, Saussignac, Montravel, Haut-Montravel, Côtes de Montravel, Rosette, and Bergerac. They use most of the same grape varieties as the Bordeaux winemakers (especially those on the east side of the Garonne) including Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, and Malbec, with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

The Monbazillac AOC is famous for their sweet white wines but dry reds and whites are also made. Château de Monbazillac vineyard is known widely for its amazing sweet wines. Our hotel, Le Domaine de la Tour des Vents was on a vineyard in Monbazillac, a few miles from Château de Monbazillac and a few miles south of Bergerac (the city). The main attraction at La Tour des Vents is the one star Michelin restaurant. On site is also a variety of lodging. Our lodging was a room in a small "domaine" of four rooms and a private breakfast area for the guests in the domaine.
We left our bags at the hotel (since we got there too early to check in) and got some lunch at a small restaurant, Le Sommelier, just outside of Château de Monbazillac. We stopped back at the hotel and then went to Château de Monbazillac. The site is an attraction as much as it's a vineyard. Visitors pay a fee to tour the grounds and castle and the wine museum, and get one or more wines to taste depending on the fee paid. The castle "features typical mid-16th century architecture combining medieval and renaissance elements" (from the sign). After walking around for a while, we tasted their Le Courreau, a semi-sweet wine that is a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle, and we bought a bottle.
The castle.

View from the back of the castle.

We went back to the hotel, checked in. After a while, went to dinner at the Michelin star restaurant. We had two different "amuse bouche"; a medley of raw and cooked vegetables with artichoke and anchovies; grilled pollack with zaatar cashew nuts, green peas, and lemongrass langoustine juice; cheese cart and spiced poached rhubarb mile-feuille (sweet french pastry) with almond cream and sorbet. We had a Jaubertie Mirabelle white wine along with dinner.
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Larry and Eileen Samberg